Layer Shifting problems

I’m printing from OctoPrint. Slicing from Cura. I think the model is partly to blame. I’ve got a revised STL that I’m going to try with slower speeds. I have printed a lot at 60mm/s and some even at 100mm/s so I know it’s possible. It could be with a larger or taller part that the servos could get heated up some which could affect the performance.

@Tone
You are welcome to send me the STL to have a look if you need to. Have a look at MeshMixer (or other tools) that has a quick analysis of the STL. It will highlight where there is an error or gap in the model. You might be missing a very small surface.
Regards
Waldo

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So a revised model and slower speeds got rid of my shifting problems. I slowed down to 50mm/s print and 100mm/s travel. I might try bumping the travel up to 125mm/s to see if it works.

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If i’m not mistaken, the axes are rated for up to 100mm/s. I vaguely remember seeing that on the touchscreen when I went to the “About” screen after updating my firmware. Maybe it can go faster. @Tone let us know if it can. :slight_smile:

I’m guessing there might be a firmware limit. @whimsycwd? @Noah?

@evandrofalleiros
@Tone You are right. I think two factor causing the shifting problem.

  1. Printing speed
    • For simple Model the speed can be very fast without lose steps. But for complex model if the Toolhead are hit the printed model during movement. It might lose steps because of the resistance.
  2. Model
    • some Z Hop retraction configuration might solve the problem, but that will make the print much slower.

So 1. I suggest you slow down the printing speed 2. try Z-Hop During Retraction

X Axis, Y Axis firmware limit is 300mm/sec, which our snapmaker can’t reach that speed. We will lose steps in hight speed.
Z Axis firmware limit is 5mm/sec, which is for safety concern.

Set Max Feedrate | Marlin Firmware Checkout this command, If you want to change it. (Not recommend to change it, only if you know exactly what you are doing) ^_^.

Have fun~

Bests,
David

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As I think about it, it’s the acceleration that will make it skip more so than the speed. I believe our Taz6 at work has the acceleration set low as you can hear it ramp up and down in speed. Either acceleration or speed could cause it to skip but I think acceleration may be the more critical one. You likely could go the fastest if the acceleration is right. For maximum performance they both have to be tuned right and then you’ll want to back off some for a safety factor.

Question: Does a G0 move exactly point to point or does it move all commanded axes at full speed until each reaches its value? The latter will be a non straight Path.

I am very impressed at how fast the SnapMaker can move and print.

With the OctoPrint/Pi hooked up to the SnapMaker you can manually enter GCODE commands through the terminal tab. So I played around a bit to see what it could do. It appears that X & Y will start to skip if commanded to move faster than 150 mm/s or a feedrate of 9000mm/min (150 * 60). Of course every actuator will vary, I’m going to try using 140 mm/s and see if it will handle it.

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I made some tests today and printed a small model successfully using 140m/s (I know it’s to high).

I printed a number of small parts with 150mm/s for rapid moves. It could be that the problem is more likely to occur when you do tall parts that take a long time thus heating up the stepper and increasing the odds it will skip. On one tall part I did, I backed off to 125mm/s and it skipped too. So my safe rapid speed is now back to 100mm/s especially for tall parts. I also believe the chances it will skip depend on part geometry. If the part wants to curl up in spots because it is thin then the chances are that the nozzle will catch on it.

G0 X0 Y0  F3000
then 
G0 X100 Y100 F3000

Notice F set feedrate to 3000mm/minute

image

Xspeed = Yspeed = 3000/sqrt(2)

You can use Snapmakerjs Console Widget to mannually enter GCODE commands. ^ ^. Have fun.

Bests,
David

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Of course if the move includes a Z move then the speed is limited by the maximum that Z can move because it is much less. (5mm/s) I’m curious, what do your tests with a double Z axis show that it can move speed wise?

Hi guys

I have problems with layers shifting as well and it is not the first I already had 3 times like this, but always on different height.

Yesterday I printed same model like this without problem, but previous was shifted.

Any solution to print without problem. I think I print really slow.

I tried with USB connection and USB drive as well.

Midremix.gcode (4.8 MB)

32152265_1706889902709984_8183616018485084160_n

Your speed is plenty slow enough. You could try “Z Hop During Retraction”. .5mm should be plenty.

Is it ok that I share my layer shifting problem here as well?

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Sure. It’s within the same realm.

This thread is very helpful. I attempted my first 5 hours print last night and it experienced the layer shift in the last cm or so of the print.

I have solved this issue on other printers but there are no belts or pulleys to adjust here.

I slice with S3D and did not see an G code issues. It’s a 7mb file so I’m going to spare the upload :slight_smile:

My print speeds are 60mm/s and less so no issues there.

I suspect either overheat or the printhead clipped the part. I am going to enable z-hop of .5 as you suggested and try again. Perhaps I will decrease the speed to 40/mms as well.

Having the same issue for the first time. Using latest Luban, 3.13.1 and default slicing for “Fast” (aka low fill) print. Using latest firmware as well.

image

Overextrusion is causing the nozzle to push against a wave of filament from the below layer, causing the skipping.

Also the first layer looks underextruded in parts.

  1. Fix the calibration so the first layer is more consistent
  2. Then correct the overextrusion

I had an issue with layer shifting today, and when I investigated, I found it was due to the linear modules needing cleaning.

After ~2 years of sitting on my desk, enough dust, grit etc. had got into the modules that it was hard for me to back-drive them (when powered off). I sprayed some WD-40 White Lithium onto the lead screws, and it freed them back up.

It also stopped a horrible rubbing noise that had started occuring.