For all who want level on glass

I am eagerly awaiting your Thingiverse upload. And thank you for the instructions and part list.

I ordered a sensor. The site said matterhackers sold that brand but didnt have the part unforutnately.

Is there some kinda adaptor u made ?

@MooseJuice Soldering and wire harness fabrication.

Is Thingiverse worth it? All the documents are available from the link. The parts you need to print are in the STL folder. You have a choice of low or high fan duct. I am using the low one as it gives a bit more clearance and seems to provide as good cooling as the higher one and better than the original part.
Never put anything on Thingiverse, I will have a look.

@stewl I avoid posting on thingiverse lately. There’s been instances of posts just disappearing and lost files in the database, sometimes they randomly pop back up somehow, if you’re lucky. It’s been bad ever since MakerBot’s resurrection. They’ve really let the management of thingiverse slip. I contacted them a couple weeks ago about it and I was told they don’t plan on improving it much and admitted it’s not their focus to maintain it. I got no response from the thingiverse team, I had to email makerbots team on their main website.

I think MyMiniFactory would be a better option atm.

Aghh just spent all morning fighting Thingiverse. It’s here for better or worse. I was quite happy when this community could find the link, this is not a straightforward mod and I hope people in the wider community dont try it and mess up their machine.
Lets see how it goes and I can always remove. I will keep the stuff in Google docs up to date.

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@stewl I let people know on the FB group about it but caution them heavily that proficient soldering, wiring, and understanding of electrical diagrams are required. If you put in big bold letters the cautionary warnings before the instructions start and that you are not responsible for them screwing up, then that’s really all you can do.

I bought a second head to do it in case I messed up because of the current situation with my left arm, and I’m a professional in this field, even us pros mess up sometimes.

Thanks for doing that. Sorted out a bit of Thingiverse formatting to emphasise the disclaimer.

Ah that is what I was looking for. Thanks!

So, I can’t just use the exising prox sensor’s wiring and transfer it to this guy?

I thought the prox had a 3 conductor plug for it terminating on the internal pcb

Edit: Oh, i See this document u made, that was not something i found originally. OK i guess ineed some more stuff then.

Yep it’s a bit tricky without the document!
The existing sensor uses 24v power and pulls down the 3.3v logic line on trigger. The IR one uses 3.3v power, needs it’s logic line to be pulled up to 3.3v to start in the right mode and goes high when triggered. This could be sorted by a small circuit board but as we need a new cable anyway, space is tight and we are working inside a metal box alongside metal parts I decided to put the necessary components into a cable thats also easy to insulate.
You dont have to use the same components I used, any equivalent will do.

@stewl honestly I think you did it the most practical way. I would’ve come to the same conclusion just because of the fact that the casing is metal. I once blew a transistor off a motherboard because I didn’t realize at some point a thumb screw somehow got lodged between the motherboard and the mounting panel. I switched out a fan, doing so I had to put the tower on its side as it’s a super tower, and when I put it back upright it moved into a position that caused an arc when I powered it on and bye bye transistor. Lots of F bombs immediately followed. The thumbscrew wasn’t an external one, it had internal ones for various reasons, I thought I had removed them all but apparently not! If anyone wants to know what a 22 LR cartridge sounds like, blow a transistor it’s pretty damn close.

Update: I’ll be getting around to reading the temps with my thermal laser reader with the silicone on the bottom of the glass hopefully sometime this week. Been super busy.

Possible using an optocoupler to isolate these two circuits?
IR signal to triggered that optocoupler then pull down the exciting 3.3v signal

I don’t see a lot of point isolating the two circuits, the IR sensor is using 3.3v from the print head board for power. Just seems overly complicated and it’s a lot easier to integrate a transistor into the cable. Wire it anyway you like though just three requirements.

  1. Power the sensor, best at the print board logic level of 3.3v
  2. Pull up the sensor output pin up on startup to engage digital mode
  3. Invert the sensor output to pull down the board input on trigger.

@stewl is correct. You COULD isolate them, but why? What’s the point of that extra work?

@hlmilk when it comes to electrical, you want to keep it as simple as possible to meet the need especially if the simplest way will not cause future issues. Too much clutter of unnecessary components would just hamper cost and space, especially with the head having as little room to work with in the head. I myself thought about using as screw terminal to improve ease of connecting a wire to the p row but scrapped that idea when I was shooting ideas back and forth with @MooseJuice when I realized I would have to redo all the silicone on the bottom of the metal housing. There’s other reasons but that’s a whole other conversation in and of itself.

@stewl its going to be a little bit longer before I can do the write up for the thermal readings on the glass with the silicone on the plate. There’s been a change in my left hand, some feeling and tenderness has come back and it’s incredibly tender, just running a finger along where it’s numb is now resulting in a little bit of pain (to be expected, it means the nerve is actually healing) and my Snapmaker is currently in CNC mode, so because of the new and very welcome change in my hand I currently cannot handle switching to 3D printing mode due to tenderness. I apologize for the delay.

@stewl
Just one little thing I noticed - the “circuit diagram” shows the board connector with the signal wire on the top, and the ground in the middle pin. However, your photos (and the board itself) require the signal wire in the centre, and the ground on the top. I only noticed this while building the cables yesterday, and double checked on the board to figure out which one was correct.

This however is a minor niggle because the rest is great, thanks a million. I’ve put it all together, powered it up and it is working even with my bodgy soldering. I tried to give you a tip on Thingiverse, but it says you aren’t set up for them - I’d love to give you something for it because it is making my life a lot easier (I liked the FiFix, but it did get a bit in the way and required fiddling to use).

@andyd it’s just an accidental oversight is all. The circuit diagram is still correct for the most part. People pay more attention to the directions of the write up than they do the diagram.

I’m really not complaining, as I’ve said this is brilliant.

But as it confused me when I compared the diagram and the photos, I figured someone else might also get confused. I just thought he would like to know so he can tweak the diagram and not have people complaining.

@andyd
Thanks for pointing this out I will sort the diagram. As you say it may well confuse others and needs to be correct.
I don’t need any contribution, the fact that others have found it useful is contribution enough for me.

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Diagram changed on Thingivers - hope i got it right this time. I built my version form my scrappy drawing and that was me trying to make it clearer!
Thanks again for pointing this out.

I also changed the google link to point to the folder with all the docs and higher resolution photo’s.

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@stewl I know this part technically isn’t your responsibility, but could you write in a clarification on whether they need to build the custom firmware in Luban after compiling it in VS Code? People are getting confused on the FB groups because they dont know if they need to upload the firmware.bin raw binary to controller only or both or module only, it’s just causing some confusion because Snapmaker doesn’t make it exactly clear. Should be obvious but… lol