Finally, I Get To Do 3D Printing


Months of failed attempts to have 3D printing functional have passed. Great frustration was experienced on non-sticking filament placement, or when the filament did stick it would only be on some sections only of the print, other sections had no filament placement.

Eventually I had a good look at the bed leveling, especially the calibration. Here I found that there was no consistency across multiple re-checks. This was all due to the bed not being secured tightly on the
Y impeller’s platform.

The problem was a stripped helicoil, this is mentioned at…

Rather than attempt repair of the helicoil I ordered a replacement bed which will arrive some time in the future. But in the meantime, in between time, what to do with the now non-functional bed?

Well what Workalot did was…

1) Remove all 4 helicoil mounts.
2) Countersink the holes on the aluminium side
   to take M4 x 12mm countersink machine screws.
   Careful attention was paid to ensure the machine
   screw's top aligned with the bed's surface.
3) Remount the bed using nylon M4 washers to
   isolate the printed circuitry and M4 hex
   nuts to secure the bed.
4) Cover the bed with Kapton tape.
5) A Z level calibration.
6) A Z level re-check (which was spot on).
7) Isopropyl Alcohol'ed the Kapton surface.
8) Did a small print (this was a wow point).	

The Kapton tape was chosen rather than a Snapmaker cover since this was for testing purposes, but the result I achieved with Kapton was quite stunning (when compared to all my previous attempts).

Next I tested how the filament would lay over the machine screws. Results can be seen at…


Wonder if that works!


Maybe this is better.


The replacement bed has arrived. This new bed acknowledges the poor design of the original bed (with its helicoil fastner). The new bed has a most robust securing mechanism.

Full marks to Snapmaker for the design change and full marks to Snapmaker for the USD29 price tag.