Nickel plated brass. The brass should conduct heat better than Stainless and the Nickle is a hard plating to resist wear. I haven’t tried it yet but I have some Carbon Fiber filament coming that I will be trying it with.
Added to SnapLinks.
EDIT: Actually, I believe it’s a MK8 not 10. I updated the links.
Well, the main problem is, I tried to change the nozzle from the mk8 (indeed not the mk10), but they stuck to their nozzle head like they are glues together, I can’t get it ‘open’ to change only the brass nozzle. I think I 've to change the complete head ?
I bought this specific one too along with a set of diferent brass nozzles (0,2-1,0 mm)
Lokking forward to give it a try.
The easiest way for me to remove the original ones is to insert an allen key size 5mm to the hole for the heating element to have a good torque arm. It would be even better to insert a completely round steel shaft with nearly the same diameter as the hole to prevent preassure marks.
PS: Don’t forget to recalibrate from a safe height (since these nozzles are a bit longer than the original ones).
Revisiting this topic as I’ve encountered a badly clogged nozzle and need a replacement. It’s the original and has done a ton of prints, so I’m not surprised. I’ve tried everything short of a butane torch on it to no avail.
How is the nickel plated brass nozzle doing after a few months of use for those who are using it with your Snapmakers? The price on it is a bit off-putting, but if they’re still working well for people, I’m willing to give it a shot.
Since the replacement nozzles available on the internet are about 50 cents each or even cheaper I do not recomend coated nozzles for standard PLA/PETG/ABS.
I’m using the Micro-Swiss Mk8 on one of my Snapmakers and it’s not much better than the standard brass - with standard materials.
I vouch for Micro Swiss nozzles through and through.
I’ve tried cheaper alternatives but they just wasted my time in the end.
Another must have upgrade is a Capricorn tube to replace the stock teflon PTFE. Especially when you’re printing high-temperature filaments such as ABS.
Make sure you also get the PTFE cutter as it is impossible to get a clean straight cut without it.
The idea is the end of the tube must be square touching the nozzle, leaving NO GAPS in between. Gaps here is the number one cause for clogged hotend kit. Take this seriously!