if it helps you I can post the f3d for the side plate i made which allows you to reuse the existing screws and apply a filter
it also has a mirrored version i made to try to screw around with adding the fifix to it but havent done so yet.
The wire slot is on the top instead but that can be moved as you desire
i am really not good with 3d modeling so i hope that the file is usable for you, i might have screwed it up turning it into components
Snapmaker 2 3DP Module Side Cover 3 v3.zip (107.2 KB)
Awesome thanks.
I actually already went back through all the history and ended up just starting from a f3z which seems to have all of @brent113’s original f3ds and some ideas (I think it was @Atom’s zip, not sure, I just downloaded everything in the thread and started jumping through files to get ideas of what I wanted). Y’all did all the hard work of modeling the toolhead and blower (looks like at some point, someone added a bit more to brent’s original blower design and modeled the doors too, all of it was super useful).
I wanted to move the fan up a bit so I could add some m3 holes for a plan I have, so I ended up just completely redesigning the whole setup from scratch (ofc, I totally “borrowed” lots of ideas from a lot of the models in this thread). I’d love to figure out what black magic was done to make that original vent, I have yet to actually check out brent’s original files, maybe I can learn from his edit history, 'cause I really struggled to get it to loft how I wanted to.
I’m just splitting it up now so I can more easily print it (my design had some overhangs, so I found myself in a bit of a catch 22 needing this mod to print this mod…) and then I can share what I have.
@brent113 did all to real work. He had the blower and 3d print head all modeled. I’m glad you found what you needed are are making somthing out of it. I can’t wait to see what you have come up with!
Ok, I got ahead of myself and forgot I haven’t ordered the fan & resistor yet. Once I do that, I may have to do updates to my model (if measurements aren’t what I expected).
Here’s what I’ve got for now thoughSecond Blower.zip (1.7 MB)
My print plan, trying to make it have as little overhang as possible and as little support needed as possible (I really don’t like wasting filament 
):
And for what I’m working that I needed more room for attachments (loving @brent113’s “tape it till you make it” idea):
Hi Kevin,
I have attached the f3d version in the attached zip file.
Atom_brent_crossbreed.zip (2.5 MB)
Woot!
I just did the mod tonight, I again got ahead of myself and printed everything before the fan and diodes arrived.
Printed using cura+octopi with my detached mount plate design, thanks to @MooseJuice and @CaptainCody’s nice close up pics of the diode wiring (little black part goes towards the red wire), and @MooseJuice’s clarification of which fan to use (white fan plug). And also thanks to everyone else for all the details on every little part of this process!
Wired it up and turned it on, M106 S128 and I could see a bit of wind coming out, and at M106 S254 it was really kickin’ it. Can’t wait to see what kind of overhangs I can get now.
Also, for those of you trying to tell if the fan is actually turning on, underneath the sticker there’s an axle you can stick a piece of tape to to see if it spins 
(this is M106 S20 followed by M106 S10, it didn’t have enough kick to get going straight on 10 first)
I see you opted for the googly eyes, good choice. i regret not doing that.
I test to see if my fan on by pressing on the casing in the upper left quadrant, and the fan will drag on it 
Hi folks,
I’m now also member of the 5015 club (yet no googly eyes, but those will follow!) 
Using my notoriously difficult PLA I did the scaled-down temp tower again, and with the version of the fan mount here from the posts above, the air blew too low for me: You can see it. The left is the old, stock cooling tower, a real catastrophe. The middle is with the files here from the forum. You can see that where the build plate forces the air on the print, its OK, but the higher the nozzle goes, the more I goes back to the old catastrophe (the tower was knocked over at some point). I could feel that the air went too low. So I modded the airguide funnel to point higher, made it go closer to the nozzle and also narrower for a more focused air jet. Now it blows right at the printing zone, and the right temp tower (also knocked over at some point) shows much better results. I guess the ugliness remaining is overextrusion, cooling is now just fine! Thanks for all of you sharing your designs!
I added another two modifications: One is a triangular stabilization surface - it makes any double-sided tape for fixing the fan unneccessary. Second: I did not have long enough screws at my hand, but only 10mm M3 screws. I added stilts with screw holes in them to put the fan onto. Its a bit tricky to get the fan on, but with careful wiggling the fan snaps in nicely!
You can find the STL files on Thingiverse. On Thingiverse, I referred to this forum to make clear that I built upon the work of others - I put license “Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike” at it - if anyone feels that this is wrong, please let me know!
I printed mine with the flat part that goes at the side of the printhead on the buildplate, the fan mounting plate pointing upwards. This requires a bit of support, but came out nicely. Just make sure that you put no support inside the airguide funnel - you’ll have a hard time removing it! Also, the screw holes in the stilts I’d recommend to do without support.
After all, I’m now happy! Thanks again for all those of you who did the initial work and shared it!
Btw.: Picked this fan: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07DBVHJC3 - it’s not the most silent one, but just works.
Cheers
Hauke
Hello together bc this topic is maaassiv and I don’t want to get anything wrong bc I also want to do this mod. the summary: fan is 50mm 15mm thick and 24V. there were so many files of the mount that I could decide what was the best so wich can you recommend? also don’t know if I can do the wiring need to read it again .
also wondering are these cooling settings in cura used with the fan mod right bc with the standard fan im always printing by 100% cooling is this wrong?
fan:https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DBVHJC3/?coliid=I3TOWK586FWBUW&colid=124YMYGD5FQ39&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
@Somnium any of the files should work, there’s lots of good designs with different tradeoffs that the designers were trying to compensate for (some are easier to print, some are more stable). Note though: whatever you decide to print, I’d highly recommend either doing it in PETG from the get-go or doing one in PLA and using that to then do it again in PETG, I found some issues with my first version (which was PLA) starting to show signs of sagging eventually. Had I not caught it early enough, it would have ruined a few prints.
I’d just recommend against mine, it has some issues (if I could edit my post to remove the files I would). If you wanna have “easy to print” (which is how I designed mine). I’m actually planning on tweaking mine in a bit (have some plans to do some CFD studies on a new hinged design with resin reinforcement channels that should be easy to print, perfect flow, super sturdy, and easy to get out of the way of the toolhead door) if you wanna wait for that (it’ll be a while though, I’m in the middle of a print marathon for some work stuff).
For the wiring, there’s a few diagrams, but I feel that my post makes it pretty clear what you have to do. Pay attention to the direction of the diode, since that’s important. Also note that it’s the fan wire with the white plug, not the one with the black plug (black plug goes to the tool fan, which you can’t control the speed of).
Thanks for the sum up 
Ok so i need the diode for the wiring since you say it’s important bc i wanted to do it today but i have no diode
Thank you all for this great idea! I am finally able to print decent overhangs and bridges. However there is a slight problem, I wonder if anyone had this or would know what is wrong.
I cannot control speed of the fans - they are always on and seem to blow with full speed. I tried both to change speed in slicer and with M106 commands via USB connection, but nothing seem to have any effect. Fans are on from the moment printer is switched on.
Thinking that maybe I connected new fan wrongly, I disconnected it and tested M106 on built in fan, same result, not able to control its speed and its seem to be blowing at max… SM2 350, bought Nov 2020.
I guess @nivekmai wanted to point out that the direction of the diode matters, i.e. take care about the polarity (indicated by a black ring). The importance of the diode can be dicussed: Snapmaker themselves did not include one in their circuit, and it may be totally fine to run without one - the transistor might be robust enough. The diode is more for the paranoid sort of people (like me ) that want to avoid potential long term damage. To explain what it does: When you shoot pulse width modulated (PWM) current into a inductivity (like the coils in the motor of the fan), you have a magnetic field building up and braking down in quick succession. The field breakdown induces a counter-polarity high voltage (but low power) spike back into the control circuit, and there’s a chance that at some point this bombardment of spikes wears down the transistor. The diode bascially shorts out the spikes and prevents them from hitting the transistor. Depending on the exact votalge of the spikes and the reverse voltage capacity of the transistor, you might not need the diode.
@Thalik that may be indeed an indication you connected the fan wrong. Double check this! The part cooling fan should be well controllable via M106 Sxxx. A M106 S255 should significantly feel different from a M106 S80. And M106 S0 or M107 should completely shut off the fan. If this is not the case, you may have mixed the part cooling fan and the hotend cooling fan. The hotend cooling fan is usually on as soon as you send a heat-up command to the hotend.
@Thalik Yep, sounds exactly like what you’d expect if you plugged into the wrong fan. There’s 2 fans, on mine the part cooling fan (the correct one) had a white plug, the hotend cooling fan (try wrong one) had a black plug.
M106 works perfectly to control my fan, so it’s very likely you plugged it into the wrong fan.
I did the wiring with a friend and works perfect
So now is this fan always on when the inbuild fan is on? Or do i have to trifger it with the inital fan speed parameters in cura?
After the i done the mod my printer can now no longer hold the nozzle temp stable it jumps from 200 to 160 to 180 and on and on whats goning on there
@Somnium I’d again say: Double or Triple check your cabeling. Make sure every connector is in the right place, firmly plugged in and also if the thermistor is properly inserted into the hotend. If you look around a bit in the forum there should be ample pictures of the connectors.
The wiring should be right and pluged the y splitter between the build in fan und the platine. The thermistor is the little sensor in the hotend right?
