3DP Part Cooling Fan 5015 Replacement

my layer height is .16

yeah the fan really made a difference for sure… although im still trying to work out the proper fan settings…

i havent really tried very hard but did to a couple others on othe rmaterial and did not see the same rate of success… but i think that i am going to re-evaluate the way i do those tests.

actually im wrong i dont know the layer height, the gcode was generated here:

Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)

So to make sure I have this right before I attempt soldering my Y splitter, the fan in this diagram represents both fans wired in parallel, so both female red (powered) leads that the fans plug into are soldered to the single positive lead for the male connector that plugs into the board, and likewise for the black (ground) leads?

Then the diode is soldered so the line on the diode is on the end attached to all powered leads, and the opposite end is soldered to all ground leads? This way, residual power on the grounded side of the fans is allowed to pass back to the powered end, but not the other way around, right?

Sounds right, yes. Line to positive, otherwise it’s a direct short circuit. And yes, the fans are in parallel.

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Has there been any warping with your duct? Maybe the air isn’t blowing as directly to the parts that need cooled as it did the first print?

I also think that improvements could likely be made to the duct itself, but I lack the design skill to make these improvements reality. Although I would like to look into doing some airflow analysis of this duct to confirm my suspicions that airflow speed, direction, and focus could be improved.

Did you also do the “P” and “S” arguments/parameters for the M106 command? I haven’t tried over wifi, but over USB it works fine.

M106 P0 S255 (part cooling fan at 100% fan)

Frankly my machine wasnt good enough to print the duct

now that i have a duct i should reprint it so it comes out better.

The fan definatley does work properly

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Thank you for the help and the quick reply!

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Should I also do a PID tune after adding this fan? I’ll search for the how to on the forum, I just need to know if anyone else has seen a need for it or had any trouble with it.

I dont think you can do that

some of the tests from this page do not work for whatever reason, but

the other thing to do is linear advance

Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)

this particular adjustment had a night and day difference for me, and i fail to understand why this isn’t part of the setup process.

Check out this thread brent started for a lot of cool info

Snapmaker 2.0 Initial Calibration Settings / Experiences - Snapmaker 2.0 - Snapmaker: where creation happens

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Woah that’s big! How much should that be scaled down to?

Argh, Fusion keeps messing up the measurements, scale it by 0.1 and it should fit right onto the printhead.

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Resized it to fit, sorry about the last one.

crossbreed.stl (563 KB)

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lol i noticed that too, what the heck is with that

What size and length screws do you use to attach the stock side plate to the spacer?

Trying to print it now with the spacer laying flat and tree supports in cura.

@brent113 I try to get that damn fan working if I connect it to a powersuply it works, connect to the snapmaker - it starts up and after a few seconds it stops! Cant imgine what Iam doing wrong! Tried with and withpout flyback. The origonal fan is still working when the new one goes down.

stefix you have it plugged into Fan1 or Fan2?

Fan1, then try to type M106 into console and see if it turns on full blast

i thought it was not working right but after fiddling around enough i decided it was.

i only say this because there are infact 2 fans in there, and one of them runs full time and one doesnt really run u ntil you tell it to, but might on power up for a moment.

also, you can try it direct to the fan connector to bypass your y splitter to trouble shoot futher

Hi MooseJuice,
I dont know is it fan 1 or 2, but I use the right one cause its spinning up together with the original fan.
but as I said after a few seconds it stops, and a 107 stops the original fan.But another 106 brings only the original fan back to work. It is weird

OK, well I say here is a good trouble shoot temporarily.

Plug the fan into Fan2 and turn the power on, it should run constantly whenver the heated nozzle is on. This is however not the right place to connect it during use, because the correct part cooling fan is fan 1 and fan 2 is a fan to prevent overheating on the board.

if the fan still doesnt run full time with the nozzle on in the Fan 2 port, maybe your cable is not right or a loose pin.

Can it be that my fan is in need of pore power?