If the fan is not operating above 30 percent it seems that there is probably something wrong with it.
I could see a fan not operating UNDER 30 percent, not having enough juice to get moving. some slicers let you blip 100% power to get it rolling then cut it down.
Its odd that you have this issue and stefix also has to watch his high level. I wonder if the both of you got the same brand fan?
the placement of your chute is different than mine. Curious.
I need to take a good hard look at mine. Its not working very well in terms of helping with bridging anymore, and im not sure why. maybe it melted a bit.
The fan is simply quite a bit more powerful than the stock fan, which couldn’t provide enough cooling for proper overhangs. For PLA I go as high as 50% on the fan and get decent results.
BTW it’s not the fan that fails in my setup, the prints seem to fail as the plastic is cooled too much too fast (?) I guess (got no evidence to show).
These are my settings in Cura as well as orientation for slicing, might not be optimal, but it worked for me
Ohh I see. yeah normally youd run it with less fan and only bump it up to max for bridging!
That was recommended above by the guy who made the chute
Just looking at mine i had printed a new chute out the other day because the quality on the original was poor because the lack of cooling ironically
it turns out the wind is blowing kind of to the right diagonally, so i shifted the new assembly over a bit
hi, i’m very interessted in this mod!
really have problems with overhangs.
but I am a bit concerned of the higher current in comparison to driving only the stock fan. How do you know, that the transistor which is switching the PWM-signal, will withstand that higher current in a long time?
The 5015 and the 2510 together consume 2.5 times the current as just the 2510.
I’d tried with lower fan speeds but my overhangs curl upward even more with anything less than 100% fan.
That was my original intent when I designed the side mount, but I never got around to it. I also wanted to have it slightly adjustable, so you could shift the duct position. Now that I no longer have the machine I doubt I will complete it. I hope you find the time to finish it, and I would love to see how you implement it
Mostly I was concerned about expensive repair costs. I don’t have hundreds of dollars to spend on it if I blow up a mod, or if a rail goes bad after the 1 year warranty.
Also I don’t like how the company treats its customers, or how they are marketing the product. I will still keep an eye in the forums and help where I can.
I see your point. I’m it using it for fun and hobby, and at the moment I have not had hard deal breakers that made me regret my purchase. Also I had good experiences with the support.
Maybe my weird line printing problem has to do with a fucked up z axis or so - don’t know. Time will tell if i’ll get more problems after extensive use.
The only thing that’s weird is that support seems have left the forum. It’s strangely quiet.
Yeah, maybe they are just hard at work? Idk, I understand that many people are very happy with their machines, and I don’t have any ill will towards SM. I just choose to spend my money with another company that better match my values and fit my preferences. I decided to sell it now so that I could recoup my investment, and for me the machine held its value well. So I don’t regret getting the SM2, and I don’t regret selling it, just wasn’t the right fit for me.
Oh - a short question. I lost one side screw. What is it called and what size is it?
Well most are cap head screws 2h or 1.5h… and have various sizes… you will need to be more specific for Me to tell you th exact size.
Those are m2 countersunk 4mm screws with 1.5h drive.
I finally got around to printing the flamgaard version of the adaptor
While it did require me to find some longer screws to attach, I will say that I am quite pleased with the results
The orientation of printing seemed like it would be awkward but it went rather smoothe, and my the primary problem I have on this thing is the way the shute sticks out on the underside and needed some support all the way under it was always coming out quite poorly
Also, although the original face plate is needed instead of it being a replacement, it still provides some extra room for the wire inside, so I am giving this one a thumbs up for sure!
dont forget to scale it to 10% if you get the file that is ginormous, i also have this problem with fusion360 for some reason
@Flamgaard could you by chance post the f3d file? I have some ideas on adding even more attachments, but I don’t really want to try working with stl in f360 (I tried before with frustratingly long results).